The small town of Bethlehem in the occupied West Bank has good reason to consider itself the Christmas capital, but this year it doesn’t feel that way.

There are very few visitors during the typical rush hour. There are none of the usual cheerful street decorations, nor the giant Christmas tree outside the Church of the Nativity, built over the spot where Jesus is believed to have been born.

Due to the Gaza war, public Christmas celebrations have been canceled for the second time. Palestinian Christians only take part in religious ceremonies and family gatherings.

“This should be a time of joy and celebration,” comments Reverend Dr. Munther Isaac, a local Lutheran pastor. “But Bethlehem is a sad city in solidarity with our brothers and sisters in Gaza.”

In his church, the nativity scene shows the baby Jesus lying in a pile of rubble. In the run-up to Christmas, a service was dedicated to the catastrophic situation in Gaza.

“It is hard to believe that Christmas is just around the corner again and the genocide has not stopped,” Isaac said in his strongly worded sermon. “The decision-makers are content that this will continue. For them, the Palestinians are expendable.”

Israel firmly rejects allegations of genocide in Gaza and judges at the UN’s top court have yet to rule on a genocide case brought by South Africa.

Many Bethlehem Christians I meet are in despair, wondering what they believe is the failure of other Christian communities around the world to speak out.

Close relationships between members of the small Palestinian Christian community mean that many locals have family and friends in Gaza.

“My mother told me that what we see on television does not reflect one percent of what is happening,” says theologian Dr. Yousef Khouri, originally from Gaza City.

His parents and sister are among the few hundred Christians who have spent much of the last 14 months sheltering in two churches in the Gaza Strip.

“Like the entire Gaza Strip, they are facing starvation. Of course, almost sleepless because of the bombing, because of all the drones hovering over their heads and because of the lack of medical care and supplies,” he says.

“We lost friends and relatives.”

In Gaza, more than 45,000 people have been killed in the war that was unleashed in response to Hamas attacks in southern Israel. The figures come from the Hamas-run health ministry but are considered reliable by the UN and others. The attack on October 7, 2023 left around 1,200 people – Israelis and some foreigners – dead and around 250 taken hostage.

Parallel to the war, tensions in the West Bank have increased. Israel has again restricted Palestinians’ freedom of movement and canceled tens of thousands of permits for workers who used to enter Jerusalem or Jewish settlements every day.

The economy is in a difficult situation, especially in Bethlehem, as the country is heavily dependent on tourism, which has almost completely come to a standstill. Guides stand idly at the Church of the Nativity and feed the pigeons.

“When there are tourists, all people will work: hotels, transport, accommodation, everything,” says a tour guide, Abdullah. “But if there are no tourists, there is no life in the city of Bethlehem.”

“I’m broke! No business! We have been staying at home for more than a year,” shouts Adnan Subah, a souvenir seller on Star Street.

“My son is a tour guide at church, we stay at home, all my children stay. No jobs, no business, no tourists.”

Many local Christian and Muslim families emigrated last year. With the constant threat of violence and settlement expansion in areas where Palestinians have long sought an independent state, fear and uncertainty about the future is growing.

But a community group in Bethlehem is trying to make a difference: They are packing food parcels for those in need. There is no government support here and volunteers collect donations – including from people in the diaspora.

“As you know, Christmas is the spirit of giving, love and joy. And we hope that with this package we can give some hope and joy to the families in our area,” says Wael Shaer, the head of the Palestine Lions Club.

I follow Wael as he makes his first delivery to a woman who lives in an apartment nearby. Her husband is sick and unemployed. She gratefully opens the box of supplies she was given and accepts an envelope containing cash.

She and Wael exchange a customary holiday greeting and wish each other a peaceful year.

“Mission accomplished!” Wael tells me as we drive off.

“Spread a little cheer at Christmas.”