HONOLULU – Dangerous surfing conditions are forecast on Hawaii’s northern beaches, with waves tens of meters high, while winter-weary travelers may be looking for sun and warm beach weather over the Christmas holidays.

In the next few days, a parade of storms and even hurricanes will roll across the Pacific Ocean. And while their storm tracks are safely located about 1,300 miles north of Hawaii, protecting the islands from direct storm impact, their deep low-pressure centers and fierce winds create powerful waves that spread across the ocean basin.

GOES-18 satellite image shows a strong Pacific storm system 1,300 miles north of Hawaii on December 21, 2024.

(CIRA/RAAM-B)

According to the National Weather Service, satellite data predicts swells near the storm centers to reach heights of up to 65 feet, with a nearby buoy measuring waves of 60 feet.

Forecast models indicate this wave train will spread southward and reach the north shores of Niihau, Kauai, Oahu, Molokai and Maui on Sunday. Seas are expected to rise to 40 to 50 feet, prompting a high surf warning through Monday morning.

Even on the western shores of these islands, surf will likely reach 25 to 35 feet. Water depths of approximately 8 to 12 feet are expected along the Big Island.

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“The Eddie” surfing competition has been given the green light for Sunday

The prediction of these massive waves in Hawaii prompted organizers of the Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational, which according to KHON2 is the premier surfing event in the world, to schedule the event for Sunday.

According to KHON2, “The Eddie” competition requires consistent surf of 40 feet or more to arrive by 8 a.m. local time. If Sunday’s event goes ahead as planned, it would be only the eleventh time since 1984.

“We are expecting one of the biggest waves ever,” competition director Liam McNamara said in a Facebook post on Saturday. The surfing competition takes place in Waimea Bay on the north shore of Oahu.

FILE – U.S. surfer Eli Olsen rides a wave as Hawaiian surfer Jake Maki wipes out during the Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational surfing competition Jan. 22, 2023, at Waimea Bay on the north shore of Oahu, Hawaii.

(Brian Bielmann/AFP/Getty Images)

The waves in Hawaii will reach their peak on Sunday

“The extended duration of this active period will result in coastal impacts, including significant beach erosion along exposed shorelines and possible flooding of vulnerable coastal roads and properties, particularly during Sunday’s peak,” the National Weather Service warned.

The NWS also expects seawater to swell and flow over beaches, coastal banks and lava flows, potentially impacting coastal properties and infrastructure, including roads. Most beaches experience strong inshore and offshore currents, creating dangerous swimming conditions.

Surf is expected to decrease Monday and return to just an “advisory level” on Christmas Eve. But the storm pattern will remain fairly active in the Pacific throughout the week.

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