Editor’s note: A version of this story was published in 2021.

Thanksgiving, of course, is America’s ultimate food holiday.

Families and friends will soon be gathering, one of the most gluttonous meals of the year is just around the corner – and people are complaining about turkey on the internet. Again.

The dish that represents the holiday more than any other has come under fire in recent years. It’s trendy to describe turkey as bland and boring, or a waste of coveted space on the Thanksgiving plate, a distraction from the countless popular side dishes to be devoured.

The anti-turkey discourse faltered again when New York Magazine’s culture website, The Cut, wrote a diatribe against the centerpiece in 2021, citing in particular how laborious it was to keep the massive poultry on a minimal payout to prepare.

No. No no no.

Let’s be clear: There are no bad Thanksgiving turkeys, just inferior holiday cooks.

Here are three very simple solutions to make your turkey shine.

1. Cook the turkey properly!

Obvious, right? But there are countless methods, thousands of recipes and countless tips and tricks that make the rounds towards the end of November. Sole it? Deep frying? Wrap in bacon? Cooking upside down?

I’ve almost always had delicious birds cooked this way – my parents love the bacon-wrapped method. But I always kept it very simple. Season it vigorously by rubbing under and over the skin with a mixture of olive oil, salt, pepper, rosemary, thyme, garlic and other herbs of your choice (if you feel like you’re overdoing it, it’s perfect) . Then add some onions and lemons to the cavity of the turkey to further enhance the flavor.

Most professional chefs I’ve spoken to about bird day cooking suggest the slow and low method: Set the oven to 425 degrees, but lower the temperature to 325 degrees when the turkey goes in. Baste, but don’t overwater. And most importantly: don’t cook the turkey for too long! Use a meat thermometer—aim for 165 degrees—and don’t trust the built-in turkey popper or you’ll be looking for a dry bird. Thirteen to 15 minutes per pound is a solid rule of thumb, but don’t be afraid to aim for 13.

2. Panel construction is key

If you tell me your Thanksgiving turkey was lame but send me a picture of a plate that’s half turkey, I’ll no longer blame the bird. I blame you. It’s not the turkey’s fault that you don’t understand the architecture of Thanksgiving plates!

No matter how good the bird is, you don’t want it to dominate the plate. Treat it like another side dish, and before you know it, you’ll be craving another helping for seconds (and thirds) when you get up.

3. Go to the dark side

Don’t you dare speak ill of turkey if you only eat white meat. Dark meat is juicier, more flavorful and more tender than white meat – it also tolerates overcooking better – and is honestly the better dish. To balance things out, I prefer a little of both on my plate.

One final note: Thanksgiving dinner should be whatever you want it to be. Feel like serving chicken instead of turkey? Do it, who am I to judge? No meat? Respect to the vegetarians. And yes, the sides are an essential part of the Thanksgiving meal. But that doesn’t mean turkey doesn’t deserve a place at the table or a place on your plate.