The Pacific welcomes winter with XL waves and high surf warnings from Hawaii to California

The Pacific welcomes winter with XL waves and high surf warnings from Hawaii to California

SAN DIEGO – Winter stormed its first Saturday as a dangerous northwest swell swept across the Pacific, triggering high surf warnings from Hawaii to California.

The most urgent big wave warning, a high surf warning, is in effect for parts of Hawaii, including the surfing mecca North Shore, where waves of 50 feet are possible Sunday, according to the National Weather Service.

The warnings are issued when waves pose a threat to life and property, the weather service said.

The same swell will impact the coast from Santa Barbara County, California to the U.S.-Mexico border Saturday evening. A high surf warning – issued as a warning to stay out of the water – is scheduled for 10 p.m. through early Wednesday, the weather service said. The largest waves in Southern California could reach 13 feet and would likely be in San Diego County, it said.

Large waves were also forecast for the West Coast up to the U.S.-Canada border: The weather service in Seattle predicted waves up to 30 feet high and the office for Portland, Oregon, forecast waves up to 33 feet high.

The ocean energy inspired organizers of one of surfing’s premier competitions, the Eddie Big Wave Invitational, to give the event a tentative green light on Sunday in Oahu’s Waimea Bay. Confirmation is expected at dawn this morning, competition director Liam McNamara said.

McNamara spoke to NBC affiliate KHNL from Honolulu on Friday and said the swell has consistently produced larger waves than forecast in recent days.

The condition-dependent competition, which has been held 10 times in 40 years, requires waves of at least 20 feet, measured Hawaiian-style or from the back of the wave, meaning wave faces can measure twice that size.

“We are expecting one of the largest increases ever,” McNamara said on Facebook on Saturday.

Kevin Wallis, director of forecasts for wave forecasting service Surfline, said on his website Saturday that a satellite recently measured a wave nearly 66 feet high off Hawaii.

“This is the largest satellite-confirmed wave height reading I have seen at Surfline in 25 years,” he said.

Honolulu officials, which govern the island of Oahu, said serious preparations for the Eddie were underway, with traffic barriers and signs set to be erected Saturday evening and lifeguard stations expected to be fully staffed Sunday.

Mayor Rick Blangiardi said at a news conference Friday that an unprecedented crowd of up to 50,000 people was expected on the beach Sunday to watch the competition.

“If you are not an experienced seagoer, you are strongly advised to stay away from the ocean and shorelines along the north and west coasts during this high surf period,” the city of Honolulu said in a statement.

Officials urged those wanting to watch the competition to stay home, watch it on television or online or use public transportation and pay attention to lifeguard announcements, as waves could cross traditional boundaries and pull people into the sea.

Kurt Lager, acting director of the Honolulu Ocean Safety Department, said waves washed into spectators in Waimea Bay during Eddie last year and that it could happen again Sunday, but with a greater reach.

“We expect this to happen again as the surf increases throughout the day,” he said at Friday’s news conference. “It could potentially be unprecedented in how far the waves will penetrate into the park.”

The competition is named after the first North Shore lifeguard, Eddie Aikau, a big wave surfer who lost his life in 1978 at the age of 31 while taking part in a trip to prove that Polynesians could travel long distances. in this case from Hawaii to Tahiti, in traditional double-hulled canoes called Hōkūleʻas. Just hours out of port, Aikau volunteered to paddle his surfboard several miles to nearby Lanai Island after the canoe took on water in stormy weather and overturned, the Associated Press reported. He was never seen again.

As a top big wave surfer, lifesaver and advocate for the indigenous culture that brought surfing to the world, Aikau’s memory is cherished. The mantra “Eddie would go” symbolizes his willingness to plunge into the scariest waves, but also to face challenges with dignity.

The competition drew some serious big waves last year and surprised the world when a lifeguard on duty during the event, 27-year-old Luke Shepardson, beat the best big wave surfers in the world to take the men’s trophy.

This year’s invitees include 11-time world champion Kelly Slater as well as big wave legends such as Mason Ho, Peter Mel and Ross Clarke-Jones.

Last year, women were also invited for the first time. This year, big wave icon Keala Kennelly, top pro Justine Dupont and “Queen of the Pipeline” Moana Jones Wong are among those taking part.

McNamara told KHNL on Friday that Aikau’s brother, surfer Clyde Aikau, was involved in the decision to hold Sunday’s competition in Eddie’s memory.

Honolulu Ocean Safety’s camp said winner Shepardson was invited to return to the competition on Sunday along with three other lifeguards from Oahu who took the field.

Surfline said the weekend’s big waves were kicked up by two winter storms in the North Pacific that are rotating counterclockwise, sending waves and rain toward the U.S. West Coast. On the Surfline website, Wallis described the recent storm as “a beast.”

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